MONARCH 7823 (AER) G-1 KOREAN WAR ERA USN REPRO LEATHER FLIGHT JACKET NEW BUILD

Description

You are now admiring one of my custom made Monarch 7823 (AER) G-1 jackets that I can build for you to suit. Let me tell you all about it!
The Monarch G-1 was a 1951 Mil Spec model jacket and final leather flight jacket contract they built for the USN. As a one time premier jacket maker, this particular jacket's design and construction techniques has it's roots in both their M-422 that predates1941 to include their mid and late War AN model USN flight jackets.
As with all of my reproductions I have taken the time to do a thorough study on this maker's
original G-1 jacket design complete. Not just by gleaning what I can from a picture nor simply by handling and measuring. Rather by taking an original jacket down to it's individual pieces, patterning and as in this case then rebuilding it complete. In essence, I have reverse engineered this jacket and as a result know this jacket both inside and out. Because most do not follow what I do to derive a given jacket's pattern those vintage nuances of a particular jacket more often than not go missing. Somehow lost in the translation. Not withstanding & since I own this same make jacket in
multiple
sizes, I completely understand how this particular vintage jacket maker originally
sized these jackets. In addition, sourcing the correct materials and machines required to create you the most accurate reproduction jacket obtainable.
Speaking of which I have been actively collecting Monarch jackets for well over 12 years. During that entire time I've  been able to acquire originals in sizes 38, 40, 42,and 46.  All of which remain in my personal collection as a
permanent
reference. Moreover, I'm a size 42/44 and have been trying to locate (through a daily search) an original Monarch G-1
in a size 44 to no avail. Not to mention, I've never seen one of these same Monarch G-1 jackets larger than a size 46. Letting you know exactly how difficult a true large size originals from this model is to find.
The beauty behind this particular model jacket is Monarch's classic over all design. As a G-1 this jacket shares Monarch's pre-WW-2 era M-422 and War era AN model jackets unique design features. In addition, all three models differ enough to the extent that none of it's particular panels (in a given size) are completely
interchangeable with one another
. Yet & as in this case all are slightly modified making each
unique to that particular model.  All the while maintaining this maker's jackets classic overall design and recognizable look.
Done by
adding changes and improvements to it's
fundamental
design to better suit it's intended purpose as in this particular case directed by the the USN's 7823 (AER) G-1 specification. All of which culminated into this maker's most cut rendition or flattering body shaped design as compared to all of their earlier models by this same maker as offered here.
As with all previous models Monarch maintained it's immediately
recognizable
characteristic
look with this G-1. As seen with a telltale vertical
seam situated at the center of the lining's back panel, raised wind flap base, pocket & flap shape and additional reinforcing stitch work to the lining. Above all, it's sleeve configuration, slightly curved side and leading edge of the back's pleat seams.
In this case, the most defining
characteristic
created with this G-1 as compared to their earlier models is it's increased
taper or cut. That
cut look was created by reshaping the front panel where it meets the back panel as situated immediately behind the arm. That connection point design is unique to the Monarch G-1 &
reminiscent
of their civilian half belt jacket design. That half belt design lends the panel a semi hour glass shape. Most notably, absent in all other G-1's I've handled to date. Along with subtle changes that were made to the back panel completely eliminated most all
vestiges
from their earlier and slightly more boxy designs.
As a result of those fore mentioned changes all make this USN model jacket their most cut design. All the while still lending it's self to the classic look of their early WW-2 flight jackets. In the end making this jacket so great and an
absolute
pleasure to wear. Not to mention, a personal favorite that every year I look forward to wearing during the jacket season.
There were other additional notable changes to this model jacket's overall unique design that I followed for this build.To include a contrasting colored olive drab nylon thread, Monarch's first USN model
intermediate leather flight
jacket to use nylon as it's thread. All prior contracts dictated either silk or cotton.
Another notable change found is with regards to the wind flap. Although the
characteristic shape was maintained as seen with a
ll prior models, all
previous
they were exclusively done as a slightly more bulky panel consisting of three separate or
individual
pieces. However, with the advent of the G-1 that same three piece wind flap was reconfigured into a two piece panel. Overall & as compared to Monarch's earlier USN flight jackets those
mentioned design changes lend this model jacket it's own unique look & feel when worn.
In addition, Monarch changed up the type of sewing machine used to attach their leather hanger. Done on this G-1 with a bar tack machine. In lieu of employing the more simple flat plate sewing machine to create a box stitch to attach the hanger. As seen used on all previous models. This is a defining change that is Immediately
recognizable as seen from the back of the jacket and just below the collar.
It is this change up in the machinery that created the constraints that made this particular jacket most difficult to correctly duplicate.Therefore and up and until now this particular make and model Monarch jacket has been avoided by most other reproduction makers. However, to maintain that authenticity of this particular build I recently sourced that  (leather compatible) bar tack machine to duplicate this same construction technique.
Most notably, another Mil Spec jacket to have employed this same bar tack machine came from a particular earlier WW-2 era A-2 jacket. That vintage maker was Bronco MFG. In the end, that simple stitch work is almost like a thumb print. Thus making that particular makers work Immediately recognizable. One of the more defining
characteristic
that makes the Bronco so very easily recognizable. A visual construction technique that s
eparates the Bronco
from a multitude of otherwise generic looking A-2 make jackets. An exact same visually defining
feature that I follow to correctly recreate this Monarch G-1 jacket.
As with all of my USN jacket builds your jacket's mouton will come from a same era vintage garment. Carefully selected by me and then expertly attached. Thus better correctly recreating that just right look like no other.
The rayon lining material that will be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. This proposed high end lining is the same type originally used on early USN type flight jackets. That sourced lining material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have ever encountered. Those color options being either a brown, steel grey or a dark green as seen utilized on those original Monarch G-1 jackets within my collection.
Your jacket will come equipped with a  like 1950s era NOS small toothed aluminum Conmar zipper assembly. A transitional model zip which has not seen used since the late 1950s.
The proposed goat hides (chrome tanned) a same to be used on this build. However, upgrades are an option. In addition, I had my original G-1 Monarch's 100% wool knit design duplicated especially for this particular build (please see that same item 114248903325  that I also offer as authentic replacement knit set)
.
All of my jackets are built using a correct vintage Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine. Just like originally used back in the day by those vintage USN jacket builders. Used to created their pocket flaps and throat latches. Most notably I am one of the few jacket reproduction manufacturers capable of offering this service. As I have restored one of those same keyhole buttonhole machines used back in the day to perfection. Even more importantly self taught on how to maintain it.
Should you want a new build there will be a waiting period.  At the stated price point this jacket can be built in size 36 through 48 as needed.
Please keep in mind,. as compared to Monarch's earlier models this jacket offers the least amount of gut room. Because of this jackets cut design it is best suited for an individual with an athletic frame.That is as compared to to their earlier M-422 and AN model jackets which are slightly more forgiving.
Please note that I have another Monarch USN jacket in the works. I recently sourced a rarely seen original pre-War Monarch M-422. Currently, working towards patterning that jacket complete. So look forward to my rendition of that same jacket pre-War and first model USN leather flight jacket. Therein completing my Monarch trifecta (M-422, AN & G-1 models ) for my USN reproduction jacket selection and coming soon!
Cheers, Dave Sheeley