AVIATORS CLOTHING CO.INC 55J14 G-1 1949 MODEL KOREAN WAR USN FLIGHT JACKET BUILD

Description

You are now admiring one of my custom made jackets. In this case an early 55J14 G-1 flight jacket by Aviators Clothing Co. that I can build in sizes 36 through 48 for you to suit. Please take the time to let me explain what I know about this particular jacket.
The Aviators Clothing Co. was once originally based out of Beacon New York. A maker of both USN and USAF flight gear. According to John Chapman and Andrew Swatland (two vintage flight jacket guru's & who both researched Aero) this same company had it's roots in renowned WW-2 A-2 jacket maker Aero Leather Clothing Co. Soon after WW-2 Aero reorganized to form Aviators Clothing Co. and awarded their one and only single USN jacket contract in 1949. Now a beyond rare jacket from the first redesigned series of USN jackets immediately following WW-2.
Presumably this 55J14 series and first model G-1 jacket was let once the stock pile of WW-2 era flight jackets were used up. These early G-1's were the direct result of a redesign of the just earlier M-422, M-422A & most specifically two late War AN model jackets. Ultimately culminating into a better fitting jacket for it's intended use over those fore mentioned or just earlier WW-2 era model designed flight jackets.
This Aviators Clothing jacket is truly a between the Wars mil spec made jacket, issued prior to the Korean War. Made during a time when naval aviation had been diminished to pre WW-2 levels. By 1950 the number of active duty aviators was at an all time low.
Likewise, this particular make jacket was not truly mass produced like earlier WW-2 era jackets. As a pre Korean War era flight jacket this Aviators Clothing jacket is arguably from one of the all time lowest volume contracts ever let by the USN post WW-2. As a result an original Aviators Clothing Co made 55J14 model G-1 is seldom if ever seen come available.
In fact more than likely less Aviators Clothing jackets were made than the five 1940 through 1941 limited contracts from all the (prewar) combined M-422 (1st model leather USN flight jacket) series jackets complete. A statement I intend to back up with my next visit to the National Archives in D.C.
Currently, I've been fortunate enough to have sourced four of these beyond rare jackets. Each differently sized as a Small (size 38), Medium (size 40 Regular & size 40 Long) and Large (size 44). All were reverse engineered by dissection to allow for me to reproduce the original pattern for this Aviators Clothing Co. jacket offered here.
My original jackets were accumulated over an eleven year period. Not to mention, all four of those original jackets dissected were found to be infected with red rot in their hide. A common malady inherent to this particular make jacket. In fact to this day I have yet to have found a single original Aviators Clothing G-1 jacket that was not somehow adversely affected by this malady and now quickly rendering those already exceeding rare original Aviators Clothing jackets extinct.
Unfortunately, that damage I found in each of my originals precluded the possibility of any restoration work. However & in each case there was still enough remaining
to accurately duplicate my now excellent and most accurate Aviators Clothing Co. jacket's pattern.
A period picture of an Aviators Clothing Co 55J14 G-1 jacket being worn can be seen in the last descriptive image. This remarkable picture was taken in 1950 or 1951 off the coast of Korea during the Korean War. That naval aviator is seen wearing his Aviators Clothing Co. jacket as a member of VF-874 and flew the F4-U Corsair in support of UN troops off of the USS Bonhomme Richard (CV-31). A great example of a USN aviator from back in the day who was issued and wore this exact same make Aviators Clothing Co G-1 flight jacket offered here as one of my reproductions.
As with all of my reproduction builds I have taken the time to
thoroughly
study this Aviators Clothing Co.
jacket's original design. Not just by using a picture nor simply by handling and measuring to derive a  jacket pattern. Rather by carefully dissecting all of my original jackets down to it's individual panel pieces.Then patterning them complete to get the absolute most thorough & complete one to one translation.
When I do my reproductions I do not miss much. In essence, I know this jacket both inside and out. Not withstanding & since I own this same make jacket in
multiple
sizes it now allows me to completely understand how it was originally
sized. As a result by using my four originals I can grade them accordingly to recreate any size.
It is my observation that the Aviators Clothing Co jacket's designer utilized the best attributes of two (Arnoff and Bogen & Tanenbaum) late WW-2 era jackets. Those two makers share the same
fundamental innovative d
esigns used to create this Aviators Clothing Co. jacket. However that is where the similarities end. As each maker had their own take on any & all panel designs, sizing and configurations for each particular part.
In other words, no USN type jacket made is generic nor interchangeable.
Whereby
e
ach maker had their own individualized pattern. Even if a jacket is from the exact same series, all the different jacket makers were completely
independent
of one another & no make is exactly like one another. Not to mention &
especially
with these early USN jacket makers who built into their design (both inside and out) multiple individualized unique
characteristics. Right down to the different seam configurations & allowances  utilized by each manufacturer. Thus lending each individual make flight jacket it's own distinctive look & feel when worn.
The changes
implemented
to create this 55J14 model jacket made them a better flight jacket. That is verses the WW-2 type. Among those changes I found that this Aviators Clothing design has several notable
differences
with two that really make this particular jacket's design visually stand apart from most all other early G-1 jackets.
To begin with this 55J14 G-1 has a shorten the body length as compared to earlier jackets. In addition, the design has fewer 90 degree angles than
previous
designs. With more taper to the front panel. That taper is initiated at the under arm along the edge of the front panel's
side seam as it
descends
toward the waist. A marked change seen in most all the 55J14 series jackets.
The truly note worthy and readily visual difference with this particular maker's design as compared to other makes is the
additional
width of it' s back verses the front panel and how it's sleeves are incorporated into the pleated (action) back panel through the side seam. Therein creating an advantage to this
design by
adding much in the way of mobility to this particular flight jacket. Beyond a doubt, for it's time this jacket's innovative design is one of the most free moving G-1's ever made and as a result an absolute pleasure to wear.
Another one of it's more visually defining and unique
characteristics
of this make jacket over all others is it's ascetically
pleasing drape and
ultimately
trend setting blousy look. T
his Aviators Clothing Co. jacket is in fact more blousy than most all other G-1 jackets I've ever encountered. It's classy look sets it apart from other 55J14 jackets. To include those WW-2 era AN model jackets that came before which utilized this same unique more free moving back panel design.Thus a first of it's kind & an attribute that
immediately
peaked my interest.
This trend setting G-1 look was all created with the addition of a well defined drop to the front panel as compared to any other USN jacket made to date. That drop was made by lowering it's front panel as it moves forward & away from the side seams and towards the leather
extension
tab where it terminates at the zipper connection point.
This design change creates a large wedge of unsupported leather directly underneath the pockets. In fact that increase of area is so profound that the pockets must be set parallel to the zipper track as it's means of maintaining continuity. Therein the difference found on earlier models that kept their pockets closer to 90 degrees to both the waist knit seam and zipper track. This marked change u
ltimately created
a well defined angular fold to the front panel's leather between the zipper track and immediately forward of the pocket which greatly contributed to it's blousy look
All of which can be seen in my Aviators Clothing Co jacket example, to include that jacket worn on the original Korean War era picture as seen in that last attachment. A look not found on any earlier model USN flight jackets and all of which greatly enhances this jacket's style over most all others.
The last
mention able
difference & yet maybe the most remarkable with this Aviators Clothing jacket design concerns the sleeve. All of which is innovative and yet for the most part completely hidden from view. Much like all USN flight jackets this particular jacket maker has a completely unique sleeve assembly by design. However in this case it's gusset design was carried one step further. In fact this jacket's entire sleeve/gusset assembly design is unlike any USN type sleeve set up I've seen to date.
The difference to the sleeve as seen on the Aviators Clothing was created by increasing the size of the Cap (upper sleeve) which then required the gusset to be shaped semi angular verses the almost generic elongated teardrop shape utilized by all other makers. Thus allowing the gusset to better conform to the natural shape of the sleeve assembly.
Another select
innovative
design change that can be immediately felt by the wearer. Again resulting in an increase mobility over any & all others.
My example of this reproduction Aviators Clothing G-1 seen in the descriptive images was built using a naturally grainy vegetable tanned goat hide of a superior quality. Exactly what you would expect for your jacket. Created specifically by me for this build. That same hide was sourced out of Italy with a minimum order. So I have plenty of this same seal brown colored 1.1 mm thick goat hide available.
Much unlike chrome tanned hides which is now seen used on more modern USN type jackets. Once well worn, the vegetable tanned type of hide to be used to create your jacket & offered here will develop patina. Thus adding even more character and grain with wear.
Your proposed jacket's mouton will come from a same era vintage garment. Carefully selected by me and then expertly attached. Thus better correctly recreating that just right look and like no other.
The rayon lining material that will be used for your build was sourced out of the UK. This proposed high end lining is the same type originally used on early USN type flight jackets. That sourced lining material to be used is the absolute thickest and correctly colored rayon I have ever encountered & available in correct shades of brown.
The size 40 seen in the descriptive images came quipped with a correct era NOS blackened brass Conmar zipper assembly. To aid in longevity all pending builds will be done using a blackened Conmar reproduction chain and correct original slider.
Your jacket will come equipped with same era buttons. While the knits are 100% wool and the exact same as those original. Furthermore and with regards to the knits and since those exact type originally used were unavailable I went so far as to have had the exact same color and style knits custom made to duplicate the exact color and configuration. Please go here eBay item #402108624652
to see those descriptive knit images as compare to one of my untouched original (size 40) Aviators Clothing 55J14 G-1.
To further the authenticity of this build there are a couple of other original features that will be found on my jackets. To include (main & size) labels originally found on this same model 55J14 jacket that I have had duplicated.
All of my jackets are built using a correct vintage Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine. Just like originally used back in the day by these USN jacket builders. Used to created their pocket flaps and throat latches. Most notably I am one of the few jacket reproduction manufacturers capable of offering this service. As I have restored one of those same keyhole buttonhole machines used back in the day to perfection. Even more importantly self taught on how to maintain it.
Should you want a new build there will be a waiting period.  At the stated price point this jacket can be built in size 36 through 48 as needed.
I'm enthusiastic about all things vintage jacket. I collect them, wear them, build them, refurbish them, research them and they are a favorite topic of conversation. Please feel free to contact me to discuss.
Cheers, Dave Sheeley